中國古代製作貴金屬鏈主要有「連環」與「單絲編結」兩大技術。連環法最早出現在中亞和地中海地區,戰國時期傳入中國。明代以後單絲編結法出現並開始流行。製鏈技法的歷史演變可能與製作長金屬絲技術的成熟相關。連環法是拉拔製絲技術成熟前的主要製鏈技術。拉拔製絲成熟後,可能參考了絲織品中的「環式編結」,開始發展出單絲編結法。製鏈技術在歐亞大陸的傳播一方面反映出東西交通的歷史變遷,而另一方面也體現出外來奢侈品製作技術在中國的本土化歷程。
“Loop in loop” and “single wire braiding” are the two main methods for making precious metal chain in ancient China. The loop-in-loop method originated long ago in Central Asia and the Mediterranean, and was introduced to China in the Warring States period. After the Ming dynasty, single wire braiding was invented and became popular. This historical change was possibly related to the maturity of techniques for making long metal wire. Loop in loop was the primary method of making chains before the wire drawing technique was developed. After the maturity of wire drawing, single wire braiding emerged in the Ming dynasty, possibly inspired by the “loop braiding” weaving technique. The spread of chain techniques in Eurasia demonstrated a history of communication between the continents, and told a story of how a foreign technique of luxury goods became localized in China.
金銀鏈; 貴金屬鏈; 連環法; 單絲編結法
Gold and silver chain; precious metal chain; loop in loop; single wire braiding